欧洲顶级服装品牌Kiton将于TOP ESSENCE开幕晚会上演时装大秀

    2007年8月20日，TOP ESSENCE北京国际顶级私人物品展主办方博锐会展，在北京金融街丽思-卡尔顿酒店召开盛大新闻发布会，宣布首届TOP系列奢侈品展北京站将于2007年9月19日-21日在北京国贸展厅拉开帷幕。据悉，欧洲顶级定级服装品牌Kiton将亮相展会，并在开幕晚会上演大型时装秀。

    Kiton品牌介绍
    优秀的极至 supreme excellence

    在众多鉴赏家在谈到裁剪艺术的时候, Kiton是用到最多的名字之一, 它代表了裁剪艺术的最高水准, 也代表了意大利最好的品牌。这个那不勒斯品牌因为其服装的华丽受到尊重, 因为其国际上的成功受到敬仰, 因为其一贯严守其经营理念 <最好中的最好, 追求卓越> ，受到世人的赞叹。它的经营哲学, 是公司总裁Ciro Paone先生的执着的追求目标。

    Kiton is the most frequently mentioned name when plenty of appreciators talk about the art of tailoring. It represents the highest standard of the art of tailoring and stands for the best brand of Italy. This Napoli brand is respected for the luxurious elegance of its dresses, is honored for its international success, and is worshiped for its philosophy "Best of the Best and Pursuing Excellence" which Kiton has always been sticking to. This philosophy is also the persevering goal of Kiton's president Ciro Paone.

    Kiton的总裁Ciro Paone，是一个不折不扣的完美主义者，是一个充满激情, 富于幽默感, 超强的领导才能的人,受到过意大利总统颁发的'劳动骑士'奖章, 被世人认为是那不勒斯裁剪艺术大使。七十多岁的高龄, 热爱生命和家庭, 热爱52条高加索牧羊犬和他的家乡。

    Ciro Paone is a one hundred percent completist, full of passion, with sense of humor, and is gifted with outstanding ability of leadership. Having been honored the medal of "Knight of Labor" issued by Italian President, Ciro Paone is regarded as the messenger of Napoli's tailoring art. In his seventies, Ciro Paone loves his life, his family, his 52 Caucasian shepherd dogs and his hometown.

    他是Arzano（那不勒斯的一个郊区）一流缝纫师的缔造者，在面料的品质方面尤其如此。任何一件Kiton的衣服都是从面料的选择开始的，每每在这时，Paone的信条就是："没有最好，只有更好，优中选优。"原因显而易见：毫无特色的面料会让最精湛的缝纫手艺变得一文不值。

    KITON is Arzano, a suburb of Naples, is an uncompromising perfectionist as far as quality is concerned, especially when it comes to cloth. The history of a KITON suit begins with the fabric. When cloth has to be found from which a suit is to be made, Paone's maxim is ,"the best of the best+1".The reason is obvious: mediocre cloth can reduce the best tailoring to nothing.

    Kiton的面料评估和挑选师非常清楚自身工作的重要意义。他首要考虑的就是要避免被一时的时髦和潮流所左右，下一个原则就是一定要选用纯天然面料。Ciro Paone认为这是确保至尊品质的最基本保障。如果没有这些严格的选材原则，就绝不会有Kiton的今天--一家国际上男装领域的龙头企业。

    The person who assesses and selects fabrics at KITON is aware of his significance.His highest priority is avoiding being influenced by transient fashions. The next rule is that only natural fibres are used, one of the fundamental guarantees for the top quality Ciro Paone has in view. Without such rigour KITON would not be where it is today-one of the leading international companies in the menswear sector.

    公司用到的百分之九十的面料都是由世界上最好的面料生产商专门为Kiton独家提供的，这些厂商主要来自于苏格兰和英格兰。英格兰的一家小型面料生产商用老式的织布机和印染技术能够生产出这种超轻的羊毛面料，而现在甚至连这些工具和技术都已成为无价之宝。

    Ninety per cent of all the cloth used by his company is produced exclusively for KITON, and comes from the best weavers in the world. They are based in Scotland and England amongst other places. A small weaver in England produces this ultra light wool using old looms and presses, today priceless antiques.

    不用说，剪裁必须非常完美，主缝纫师仍然像一个世纪前那样用粉笔勾画出每一处裁剪部位，用大剪刀进行裁剪，接缝部位--每一件手工缝制服装的"灵魂"--当然要用普通的方法浸泡，然后晾干。缝纫师们在裁剪、缝制、熨烫这些独立布块的时候都极其细心。这样一个过程显然是需要时间的：一件服装需要花费20多个小时。Kiton的缝纫师们都经过专业的全程培训。实际上，任何一个步骤都来不得半点马虎。如，要让一个胸部口袋独特的形状和柔软度达到一定的精度，就有大量的事情可做。只有每一个细节都像这样做到位，方能达到Kiton服装完美的风格和品质。"那不勒斯的肩"是一流的，而这也是用剪刀和针线一点一点缝制出来的。衣领的形状和轮廓也绝不是预先设置好的，先要经过勾勒，但最终的形状只有与衣身一起才能完成。

    It goes without saying the cut has to be perfect. The master tailor still outlines the individual pattern pieces with tailor's chalk and they are cut out with large scissors in the same way as they were a century ago. The sections of linen interface-the "soul" of every handmade suit-are of course soaked in the ordinary way then hung up to dry. When the tailors line, sew, and iron the individual pieces, they do so with utmost care. This process obviously needs time. Over 20 hours are required to finish a single suit. KITON's craftsmen are trained to proceed with extreme care the whole time. There are practically no work phases that don't demand alertness. For example, there are many different things to be done by hand with great precision to give the breast pocket its particular shape and softness. It is only when every detail is done in this way that the unmistakable style and class of a KITON jacket can be achieved. As to the classic "Neapolitan shoulders", they too are created one step after another with scissors and thread. The contour of the collar is by no means prefabricated. First, it is put on but its final shape is only completed together with the jacket.
    显然，这样高度精密的工作程序让它的年产量受到了限制，年产仅少数几千套，只对在全世界范围内经过严格筛选的商店进行独家销售。公司至今仍然保持着与50年前一模一样的工作方式，几乎所有的工作都是手工完成的，每一套衣服，每一件夹克，每一件衬衣，每一条用特殊折叠工艺制成的领带，都是纯手工制作的。现在，公司每天只生产制造约100套服装和80件衬衣，外加25件女式外衣。再增加任何一件都会影响产品的质量。在任何情况下，独一无二都是Kiton经营理念的一部分。

    Obviously, such intensely detailed work limits the annual production to a few thousand. They are only sold to the most exclusive shops in the whole world which have been carefully selected. It still works in the same way that many tailor's shops used to do 50 years ago, with almost all the work being done by hand. Every suit, every jacket, the shirts and the ties(which are made by a special folding technique) are hand-made. Every garment is cut individually and a suit takes around 18 hours to make, from start to finish. But this is only one of the reasons why the production volume is limited. Products of such high value are one-off items, unique, with a spirit of their own. Nowadays the firm makes about 100 suits and 80 shirts a day, plus 25 garments from the women's collection. Making any more would affect the quality, and, in any case, exclusiveness is part of Kiton's philosophy.

    从1991年开始生产领带，Kiton领带的设计是独一无二的，只用最上乘的丝绸面料，每条领带都要通过那不勒斯最好的传统方式折叠七次。1998年生产出第一批衬衫系列（纯天然上等面料，手工接缝制作--只有那不勒斯的缝纫师们才能缝制出来）。Kiton的户外系列是在2000年登场的，该系列为运动系列，包括运动夹克、休闲裤、运动衬衣、牛仔装、腰带等。而在2003年，Kiton有了生产高级鞋子的工厂--顺便说一句--也是纯手工制作的。它的这种发展战略正确性的事实证明就是：这些新增的领域占其销售额的42%。这里想再一次引用Ciro Paone的话来形容公司的精神导向："止步不前就意味着落后。"

    Its tie collection was added in 1991.The designs are created exclusively for KITON and only the finest silk is used. Every tie is folded 7times in best Neapolitan tradition. In 1998 its first shirt range appeared(finest materials made of natural fibres with hand-sewn seams-as is befitting of a Neapolitan tailor). In 2000,KITON Outdoor was launched, a line in sportswear with sports jackets, casual trousers, sports shirts, jeans, belts etc, and in 2003 KITON opened its own factory producing luxury shoes, all made-as if it needs mentioning-by hand. The proof of how right this progressive strategy is lies in the fact that the additional collections amount to 42% of total sales. To quote Ciro Paone, the company's spiritual director once again," he who stops getting better stops being good".

    在那不勒斯富裕、动荡的历史进程中，产生了辉煌的缝纫制衣传统，不仅赋予那不勒斯男人们对着装风格不可言喻的独到品味，也创造出了一批技艺超群的缝纫大师，他们能缝制出世界上最高雅最别致的服装。这种传统依赖于少数一批那不勒斯公司的存在，并在这些公司内部得以保持。这些公司依然能缝制出那类曾经在电影中出现的裁剪完美的服装--如在安东尼奥尼的《蚀》中因为对生活现状不满而郁郁寡欢的富有魅力的Alain Delon所穿的服装，而今天在我们这位凝望着那不勒斯海港沉思的封面人物身上再一次引人注目地得以重现。

    Out of Naples's rich, unsettled history there emerged an outstanding sartorial tradition, one which not only left Neapolitan men with an ineffable sense of style but also created a coterie of highly gifted tailors capable of producing suits as elegant and distinctive as any in the world. That tradition liveds on, practiced today by a handful of Neapolitan firms. They still know how to turn out the sort of impeccably cut suit once worn in the movies-by a glamorously depressed Alain Delon, for instance, brooding on the dissatisfactions of life in Antonioni's "L'Eclisse"-and now sported by the pensive fellow gazing out at the Bay of Naples on our cover.

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